Re: Cutting stainless media

missmonkey****ne@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 fired this volley in
news:81d6acd7-e544-427e-97c0-784ffa060c18@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

> On Apr 23, 11:11 am, "Scott H" <greyba...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>> I've been wanting to make a load of stainless media for a while, and
>> I've got some 1/2" & 3/4" stock coming soon. Right now I'm exploring
>> ways to cu 
> t
>> it up. Lloyd suggested a band saw with a good cooling system. The
>> followin 
> g
>> link shows some 1/2" Rockwell 60 rod a buddy cut with a small
>> handheld plasma cutter. Not stainless, just sort of a test. (I had a
>> cutoff piece laying around, so what the heck...)
>>
>> http://pyrobin.com/files/testcutr60-1a.jpg
>>
>> The cuts are very rough LOL (a little long, too) and the pieces have
>> been slightly deburred with a grinder. The discoloration that extends
>> up the ro 
> d
>> is what I'm wondering about. That's from the plasma cutter, not the
>> grinde 
> r.
>> I realize this steel is harder than 304 stianless, but I'm sure the
>> 304 wi 
> ll
>> be simalarly discolored when cut. Is this a problem, ie: is the
>> plasma cutter too hot? Maybe they can be polished?
>>
>> I'm thinking a band saw would be better, but since I don't have
>> access to 
> a
>> good one, I'm considering the plasma cutter. I just don't want to
>> spend $150+ and realize I f****d it up... :0
>>
>> -Scott
> 
> 
> 
> The last time we cut 3/4 stainless bar stock for one of the animal
> enclosures, we ruined our band saw blade. My husband found a guy in
> the yellow pages who cut and deburred the remaining 40 pieces at a
> rate of $35 an hour. It cost more to replace our saw  blade than it
> did to have someone else do the work (and use up his blade).
> 
> Unless you're dead set on doing it your self, try having a metal
> working shop cut it for you. It may be cheaper in the long run.
> 
> I have heard through the grapevine that a lathe is still the best way
> to cut the stainless rod stock. Can any machinists confirm this?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Regina

Regina, that's a common failure with folks unused to cutting stainless 
steel.  Most stainless alloys are terrifically unforgiving about work-
hardening when cut improperly.  They become so hard as to dull or break 
the teeth on the blade.

With the right pitch and style blade, with the right (very aggressive) 
cutting speed and feed, and with the right cooling, 304 or 316 stainless 
cuts as easily and quickly as "mild steel" (actually low-carbon "Merchant 
Stock" is the correct term).

Even gently advancing the blade into the work at the beginning of a cut 
is enough to ruin a blade more or less instantly.  It must initially 
touch the work at full feed speed, and never be allowed to let up on 
pressure until the cut is complete.  Back it off to "check the cut", and 
you may have ruined it.

I cut 3/4" to 2" 316 on my $199 Taiwanese 4x6 bandsaw about twice a 
month.  The coolant system is nothing but a garden hose set for a slow, 
gentle stream. I don't use a lubricant -- although using one will greatly 
extend your blade life, because the faces of the blade "skate" in the 
cut, and will kill the set on the blade eventually (before the tooth 
edges dull).

LLoyd