Re: Lightweight Theater walls

<WilliamMLovell@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message 
news:da2bdcf4-ae51-47d5-8a84-4f0522eb6384@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Ok, now I am curious about attaching the panels to each other.
>
> To attach a theatre flat to those beside it,  do you use:
> - screws ?
> - bolts ?
> - other ?
> - no attachement at all?
>
> Another twist is placing 2 panels at a 90 degree angle. I would have
> the frames an inch or so from the edge, to allow the panel edges to
> touch. Then when the question is "How to you attach these 2 panels?"
>
> Thoughts?
>
All of the above :-)

Hollywood flats are usually attached to each other with C-clamps
or sheetrock screws. Bolts would work too.

Hollywood flats are built much like a box with 1"x3" sides and a
luan face (very thin plywood).

Traditional flats are built flat like a picture frame except that the
corners are butt joints and not usually mitered. They always used
to be covered with muslin (heavy fabric just short of canvas).
Now a lot of people cover them with luan for a more rigid surface.
Some of the really hip folks cover them with luan and then cover
that with muslin.

Traditionally you would use thin rope to secure the flats to each other.
You will have to look for pictures on the web to explain how this works.
I can't easily put it into words.

Another option for attaching the pieces together is to use hinges.
Regular door hinges will work, but we normally use what they call
loose pin hinges. Instead of a pin like you use on a door, the
loose pin hinge uses a stiff piece of wire to hold the halves together.
This makes them easier to take apart.

Muslin makes a better surface for painting. Another advantage is
that you can apply a dutchman to the seam between flats and the
surface material will match. A dutchman is a strip of muslin about
3" wide that is lightly glued over the joint between flats to cover the
crack. you probably won't do that because you want to reuse the
same set year after year.

Another poster said that you usually wrap the muslin around the
edge of the flat. I disagree with that. I think it is better to apply the
muslin a bit oversize to the surface and then trim off the excess
after the glue dries. Usually you would trim it about 1/4" back
from the edge.

You only glue the muslin along the edges and leave the fabric
snug, but not tight like a drum. You then paint the fabric with sizing.
The sizing causes the fabric to shrink a little and tightens it up.
If you start with it too tight, the sizing can actually cause the tension
too get too tight and break the frame.

On flats with a hard surface you want the frame to be flush against the
edge of the surface. If you set the frame back, your edges will get
damaged more easily, and it will be difficult to create a straight wall.

Of course you can use welded steel frames too and bolt or hinge
the pieces together. I'm personally more comfortable with wood,
but I might feel different if I knew how to weld.

This must all sound pretty confusing, but it really isn't too bad if you
know what you are doing. Perhaps you should find someone that
has experience with creating scenery to help or at least guide you
through the process.

Good luck

David